You have to be up early Saturday morning if you want to catch the action at the Roseville Tortilla Factory. Likewise, if you want the freshest tortillas imaginable, you'll have to be there by 8:00 AM when the shop opens for business. The hours don't seem to bother the Ayala family anymore, they have been doing this for 28 years after all, but what concerns them most is how little interest there seems to be in quality tortillas and masa these days. After spending a day with them, I hope this post can change that.
It used to be that the Leo and Victor Ayala made tortillas every day (along with tortilla chips), but with the growing popularity of cheap, industrial tortillas found in big-box stores around the region they've had to severely cut back production to just one day a week. Speaking with Leo about this, it becomes clear he feels something is being lost in the simple pleasure of a hand-crafted tortilla. "Everyone today makes their tortillas out of powder" the 86-years old tortilla-maker bemoans, "they stink."
If you have glossed over tortillas for your homemade tacos and burritos, you're not alone. Much like it took an awakening for Americans to realize there was more to bread than the thin-sliced white bread we grew up with, we are slowly realizing that there is a simple, affordable pleasure in a tortilla that has real flavor, texture and can even be enjoyed on their own. I sampled some of Leo's fresh, hot tortillas today. The chewy, corn-sweetened flat bread was a treat you just can't find in stores today - and rarely in even the best restaurants.
The Ayala family started making tortillas in Roseville about 28 years ago, they aren't quite sure what year it was honestly. The first order was a man that knew Leo could grind corn properly and he placed an order that was shipped out via the US Postal Service. Being they didn't have a real business at the time, Ayala simply put the return address as Roseville Tortilla Factory. Nearly three decades later, at least that hasn't changed.
What makes a good tortilla? I asked myself this question before heading out to the shop. It turns out the key to quality is the same as anything: attention to detail and the best ingredients you can buy. Admittedly, Roseville Tortilla Factory's tortillas are more expensive than you'll find at your big-name grocer, but given the amount of labor and focus on quality that occurs I'm frankly surprised it isn't more expensive. How expensive is "expensive"? We're only talk $1.49 for a pack of handmade tortillas here - this won't break the bank.
To begin the Ayala's buy the best corn they can, and it just happens to be grown in California. The corn is beautiful, the kernels plump and colorful, something you would
want to eat. Next you need to know a thing or two about grinding. Leo was kind to give a quick tutorial, but the level of detail was still way over my head. I'll say this though, according to him, "if you don't have a good grind stone, you can't make good masa." Seeing how passionate he was about this step, I figure he must be right.
What else is needed for a great tortilla? Well, it really boils down to how carefully you pay attention to details. The Ayala's know what what the masa should look, feel and smell like. There isn't a cook-book or instruction manual in the kitchen, not even a measuring cup as far as I could see. Instead, they trust their nose, fingers and eyes to tell them exactly what needs to be added to make the masa perfect. Watching the father-son team work together, seeing the heavy lifting, the kneading, the carrying of dough, witnessing everything they do to make tortillas, it becomes clear: this is a labor of love for the Ayala family. And now with things as slow as they are (not just because of a slow economy, either), a third generation is willing to get up early, get a little dirty and do what is needed to see this family business move forward. "It's hard times right now," states Austin Ayala, Leo's grandson, "I'm just helping out where I can." Victor, Austin's father, is certainly appreciative of the extra hands.
As the machines were powering down and as the cleanup began, I couldn't help but wonder how a business like this would make it through the next 30 years, let alone the next 5. The interest in things made by hand, using the best ingredients possible, seems to be waning more and more every day. Add to that the fact that everyone is pinching every penny they can and you begin to feel a sense of loss. Then again, I look around and see more and more specialty shops opening up - people who roast their own coffee beans, butchers who hand select the best regional meats, chefs choosing to buy local ingredients for their menus. I see these things and also feel a bit of hope. Clearly, the Ayala's see this too.
Before saying our goodbyes, Leo talked to me about ideas he has to get more local business - he may be 86 years old, but his mind is still clicking. He wants to try a program where he
gives 30 pounds of fresh masa to local restaurants to try, those who currently make their own chips using the powdery substance Leo detests. He believes in his product so much he is certain chefs will choose it over the cheap stuff. I certainly hope he's right.
About LeoLeo Ayala learned to make tortillas from his mother in Mexico when he was young. He laughs now recalling how much work it was then, doing everything by hand (bear in mind, the man still has beads of sweat on his brow). When he moved to the Sacramento region he worked for Southern Pacific, the railroad company, and there learned how to weld and all the basics in machinery. He was in his 50s when he took his knowledge and love of tortillas and combined them with his machinery skills to build his own tortilla maker - by hand! This is the machine they still use today and clearly Ayala Sr. is proud that it's never given them a tough time. He thinks it may be the oldest tortilla maker of its kind, and honestly - who am I to disagree?
Leo's passions for food don't stop at tortillas, either. The Tortilla Factory also has a small restaurant and deli that features foods made by hand by the Ayala family and for years he's been honing his chorizo making skills and today he is making the spicy Mexican sausage with only 2% fat. He also created a chile roaster for his salsas to eliminate heart burn from the heat of his homemade salsas. As if this weren't enough, his pickled jalepenos also have some "Leo secrets" that make them last longer, without losing flavor (I tried them, and they were among the best I've ever had). In short, the guy is a foodie and has been since long before foodie was even a word. He's also an old-school tinkerer who can't stop himself from trying to make something good into something better.
If you live in the area, stop in for some fresh tortillas. You can also call ahead to order fresh-ground masa in advance for making tortillas or tamales at home. I'm convinced if you ever give it a shot, you'll never go back to the everyday, store-bought masa again.
Company InfoRoseville Tortilla Factory
313 Riverside Ave.
Roseville, Ca
Phone: 916-783-3311
- Story and Photos by Tracy Bethune
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I love local food and local beer. It seems I'm not alone in this, as more and more I see restaurants big and small promoting their commitment to serve as much local food as possible. Whether it's produce grown an hour away or goat and lamb from down the street, local is a catchy buzz phrase that can bring in the people. I think that's fantastic. What I don't like is the number of joints proud to serve local food with little to no consideration for local beer. Frankly, I find it lazy and frustrating - completely pointless. I buy local products as much as possible and can guarantee you it's more difficult and more expensive to source locally grown meat than it is to procure beer brewed a few miles away. What gives? 
